5: Up-Up-Up to Lover’s Leap

When I left off a friend and I had rented scooters and while our friends
went to the market in Black River with our chef to shop, we decided to
take a ride up into the hills to a place I’d heard and read about for
years but never seen: Lover’s Leap. I had to ask Gloria at Mar Blue how to get up there, I knew vaguely where it was. She gave me excellent directions to Southfield and then where to turn off. We checked once or twice along the way to be sure we were on the right road but we always were.

I wish you could see elevation here, because the entire trip was UP:

Here are some of the views on the way up there.  This is looking back down to Treasure Beach.


Yes those are rain clouds. They are always up on the mountain, though not often do they come all the way down to the coast. If they do, it’s late afternoon/early evening.

I’d heard the legend of Lover’s Leap, and read a book about it (by Horane Smith, not a bad read).  The story goes that two slaves fell in love and after an escape attempt and the attraction of a plantation owner, decided to leap off here together rather than be separated.

I’d heard it had been closed off and on for awhile, but for a 45 minute scooter ride we figured we’d check it out and see. The ride up was lovely in any case, with good roads and not much traffic. Our 80cc scooters handled the inclines very well, and the curvy roads, and the potholes, and the sand and gavel. We drove cautiously – I always do – but it was really nice enough to look around and enjoy the view rather than stare at the roadbed all the time, as I sometimes have to do scooting in Jamaica.

Here is my good friend at a scenic stop on the way up:

She snuck this one of me somewhere along the way:

And these too…


We finally made it up, and it’s not only open, it’s been renovated. There are big signs at the turnoff and along the way. The guard at the fate tells us it’s $300J (about $3US) per person. I’d thought it was around $10US so this is a pleasant surprise.

Here is a statue of the lovers.

This is the lighthouse. We didn’t go up, didn’t think of it, but apparently it’s possible to do so.

Around the grounds, which are very well kept and apparently can handle large events, like weddings.


What everyone comes to see, however, is the view down. I took photos, but it is simply not possible to capture the jaw-dropping panorama you see when you step out the doors of the restaurant/bar to the terrace that runs along the clifftop. Just.can’t.do.it. justice.at.all.

Looking towards Treasure Beach


Looking down 1700 feet.

Down and east at the bluest water.

Looking straight out, I can’t tell where the sea ends and the sky begins.

You don’t have to tell me twice:

This is looking east to Alligator Pond. Our guide said that the reason Alligator Pond is so named is because of this mountain being shaped like a crocodile’s head. She explained at the entire bay east of here is shaped like a croc, with its tail at the end by Milk River. I’ll have a lot more to say about that area later in this trip blog.

If you are nearby, this is a must-see at any price, but for $3US? Dumb to miss it. I’m really glad we went up.

On our way back down we stopped at our local supermarket in Pedro Cross, locally referred to as Crossroads because of, well, two fairly major roads crossing there. On our way back to TB it finally rained. We got a bit wet but sought shelter at Jack Sprat for a couple of foofoo drinks, damp but happy 🙂

Many of these pics courtesy of my friend China.

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